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Why is this French toast different from all other French toasts?
April 19, 2000

I grew up in a nonobservant Jewish family, which meant that you always knew it was Passover in our house when my mother started making matzo brei in the morning. Passover begins tonight, so I'm sharing this family recipe. I hope you will forgive me for noting that my mother's matzo brei is the world's best. (When I mentioned this to my friend David, he responded, "You must have her confused with my mother." Right on cue.)

MATZO BREI
by Judy Amster

I hope you will note that there are those who wrongly serve sweet matzo brei while I am sending you the traditional and savory version. You may have to adjust portions on this to suit personal tastes as some like it eggier or more oniony.

For two servings:

3-4 Tbs butter
1/2 medium onion
3 large eggs
4-6 whole squares of unsalted matzo
Salt and pepper

1. Saute the onion in the butter over medium heat until golden.
2. In large bowl, beat the eggs until frothy. Add about 1/4 cup cold water. Combine well. You can season the eggs with the salt and pepper or wait and season the finished dish, which I prefer.
3. Holding all the matzo in a pile, run them under very hot water for a minute or so until you feel them soften, but not to the point of sogginess. I usually shuffle them so the middle pieces are directly soaked. Some cooks pour bowling water over them in a bowl and then drain them, but I find that iffier. Break the matzo into random sized pieces (about the size of saltines) and stir them into the eggs. Combine them well without breaking down the matzo too much further.
4. Pour the egg/matzo mix over the buttery onions, stir briefly, then flatten over the whole bottom of the frying pan. Cook over medium high heat until brown on the underside. Turn in sections, but reshape it back into a pancake and cook until brown again but still moist within. Serve with lots of salt and freshly ground black pepper.

This is essentially Jewish French toast. The sweet version made with cinnamon and served with applesauce is even closer to French toast, but I think the two concepts should be kept separate. Geh essen.